Ranger Blog: Fabric
Step 1: Place a cardstock scrap behind the area that will be stenciled. This will prevent ink being transferred thru the fabric to the back.
Step 2: Determine the center of the onesie and place a Post-it in place. This will be the GUIDELINE we use to keep the letters straight. Painter’s tape can also be used to create the straight line.
Step 3: Starting with the center letter “T,” line up the bottom of the T with the Post-it. Move the rotating window in place over the T. You’ll see that the area is masked off and the background is protected by the rotating window.
Step 4: Ink the Mini Blending Tool with Violet, then place the blending tool over the “T.” Twist and turn to add ink. The window was designed to be used with the Mini Blending Tool and it’s a perfect fit.
Step 5: Position the “I,” again, lining it up on the Post-it, as the guide. Move the rotating window in place & stencil the “I.”
Step 6: Continue with the “E.”
Step 7: Now moving to the left of the “T,” position the “A” and stencil.
Step 8: Position the “K” and stencil.
Position the bottom portion of the wreath stencil, centering it below “KATIE.”
Step 9: Mask off any areas outside the area to be stenciled with post-its. Good safety measure!
Stencil the wreath with Leaf Green.
Step 10: Use the Heat-It Tool to dry and heat set the Archival Ink. This makes it permanent and washable. You could IRON, but that’s a 4 letter word here. The Heat-It tool is quick and easy!
Step 11: Sew a button on to accent the wreath.
Stencil the name, following the steps as above. Make sure to use Archival Ink. I switched it up and used a different ink color for each letter. This time I added his birthdate below the name, using the numbers from the inner circle of the stencil. They’re stenciled with Black Soot Archival.
One of the benefits of Archival Ink is that it is permanent when dry. This allows us to stencil on fabric, to create these custom onesies. What a fun unique keepsake!
Stenciling with Archival inks is great for custom home decor projects too. I’ll be back with some holiday stenciling soon.
Using the Select-a-Stencil, you can stencil ANY word. It’s great for names with a unique spelling. You’ll never run out of any letter!
You can also stencil your chosen name/word on a scrap first. This will help with placement/centering. Use the scrap as a stenciling/centering guide for perfect placement every time.
The stenciling can be done horizontally, vertically and even around curves.
Because Archival Ink is waterproof, clean the stencil with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol.
Wendy Vecchi is a Signature Artist for Ranger Ink. Her designer series archival inks and embossing powders take inspiration for a vintage country garden color palette. Wendy also designs a line of stamps, stencils, Art Parts, and Clearly for Art with Stamper’s Anonymous. You can learn more about Wendy, get a link to her blog, see projects and videos by Wendy, and check out her teaching schedule on her Ranger Designer Page. Be sure to follow our Wendy Vecchi Pinterest board for even more inspiration!
- Prepare three work areas for this project: one for stamping your images, one for ironing the fabric and one for rinsing out the Color Wash.
- The stamping area should have a Non-Stick Craft Sheet underneath and room to stamp several images at a time.
- The ironing area should have two pieces of blank newsprint large enough to cover the fabric ready-one will be underneath the wet fabric, the other will be placed over the set fabric. I also put a piece of Parchment Paper or something that is nonporous underneath the newsprint to protect my ironing surface.
- The rinsing area should be a deep bowl or a sink that has a little cold water in it. I also like to add a little vinegar to the water to help set the color. (You may need to rinse a few times, so if you can use a sink that is the best option).
- Lay the silk or sheer fabric on top of the Non-Stick Craft Sheet. (Use sheer fabric so that the Embossing Ink can soak all the way through and transfer the image to both sides of the fabric).
- Ink the foam stamps and press them onto the fabric in a random pattern. You may want to stamp off of the fabric as well so that the design runs off of the fabric. (Foam stamps with larger images work best for this technique). Work in small sections; especially if the weather outside is very hot and dry. This will allow you heat emboss your images before the Embossing Ink dries.
- Sprinkle the Clear Embossing Powder over the stamped images. You can either pour the Embossing Powder out of the jar or put the Embossing Powder into a little plastic bottle that allows you to control the spray of Embossing Powder a little better. Start at the top of the images and sprinkle the powder. Then hold up that end of the fabric and allow the Embossing Powder to roll down the fabric, covering the ink stamped images as it passes over them. Have a tray at the bottom to catch the extra Embossing Powder and you can return it to the jar for later use. Or, you can simply have a sheet of paper at the bottom to catch the excess powder and return it to the jar.
- Lift the scarf and lightly shake off any remaining powder then lay scarf flat on top of the Non-Stick Craft Sheet.
- Using the Heat It Craft Tool, gently heat the embossing powder to melt it. Be careful as the fabric is sheer and will scorch if you leave the heat in one area too long. I like to lift the fabric up and allow the hot air to pass through the scarf as I am heat setting it. If you leave the scarf on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet, don’t worry if you see brown coming up from the image. That is simply the Non-Stick Craft Sheet.
- Repeat this process until you have stamped and heat embossed the entire scarf.
- PUT ON Latex or protective gloves and keep them on for the rest of this technique.
- Choose the colors of Color Wash that you want to use on your scarf and begin spraying the colors onto the scarf. Don’t worry about overlapping colors or missing areas of the scarf. You can simply spray more color or spray some water to allow the colors to wick together. You will see that the heat embossed areas are resisting the Color Wash.
- As you are working, you can lay sprayed portions of the scarf over other sprayed areas. That will allow the colors to blend even more. Continue spraying until the scarf is covered.
- Move to the ironing area and lay the wet scarf directly onto the newsprint piece of paper that is waiting on your ironing board or padded surface. Try to flatten out the fabric as much as possible then place the other piece of newsprint over the top of the scarf.
- The iron should be on a hot and dry setting. Run the iron over the top of the newsprint, being careful not to let it set too long in one area. Keep moving the iron over the newsprint until the entire top has been completely ironed (to help set the color). You can lift the newsprint to check on the design. If the newsprint sticks, just run the iron over it some more to further melt the Embossing Powder that is being absorbed into the newsprint. Then lift the paper again.
- Keep the scarf in between the pieces of newsprint and turn them over. Repeat the ironing on the underside of the newsprint. Now begin to remove the newsprint as you continue ironing down the scarf. If the Embossing Powder seems to stick to the newsprint as you are lifting it up, just reheat with the iron and remove the paper. Sometimes you can get some really colorful designs ironed into the newsprint. You can use those designs on other craft projects.
- Take the ironed scarf over to the rinsing area. Put the scarf down into the bowl or sink and the water will immediately start to change color. This is the excess dye from the Color Wash. Continue rinsing the scarf until the water seems to run fairly clear.
- Let the scarf air dry. After it is dried, you can either iron it again or just let it dry naturally and have those awesome wrinkles.
- As a finishing touch, you can add trim to the edges. Here, I have hot glued a beaded trim on the bottom of the right side of the scarf and hot glued the eyelash trim on top of that.
(1) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet as a palette, mix together three different paints using Inkssentials™ Clear Fabric Medium with reinkers as follows:
a. Archival™ Pale Ocher reinker
b. Archival™ Vermillion and Adirondack® Pigment Snow Cap reinkers
c. Archival™ Rose Madder reinker
Use a paint brush to apply the various paints randomly across the surface of a torn three inch by six inch rectangle of unbleached muslin. Set aside to dry or speed drying with the Heatit™ Craft Tool.
(2) Once the painted muslin is dry, stamp the heart image on the surface using Maroon Archival™ inkpad.
(3) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet as a palette, mix together a creamy paint using Clear Fabric Medium with Perfect Gold Perfect Pearls. Brush the paint over the surface of a three inch by six inch piece of dressmaker’s pattern tissue. Set the tissue aside to dry. Use the remaining gold paint to paint in one of the center layers of the stamped heart image.
(4) Mix another creamy paint on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet using Clear Fabric Medium and Forever Red Perfect Pearls. Paint the stamped outlines of the heart image on the painted muslin. Allow to dry. Once dry, free-motion stitch a heart shape around the stamped image using a straight stitch on your sewing machine.
(5) Accent the heart by hand-sewing tiny seed beads with embroidery floss. Outline the sewn heart shape with small hand sewn stitches using embroidery floss as shown.
(6) Cut out the heart shape leaving a one-quarter inch seam allowance around the sewn outline.
(7) Tear a three inch by five inch scrap of unbleached muslin. Wet the fabric and dye the scrap using Color Wash in Stream, Denim and Lettuce. Rinse the muslin until a soft pastel hue is achieved. Set aside the fabric to dry.
(8) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet, spritz a vintage French dictionary page with Sunflower Sparkle Perfect Pearls Mist. Dry with the Heatit Craft Tool.
(9) Ink the edges of a fortune cookie fortune and the edges of a five inch by six and one-half inch cream cardstock card base with Antique Linen using the Blending Tool and Foam.
(10) Use pinking shears to cut a four and three-quarter inch by six inch rectangle of natural cotton quilt batting. Use the photo as a guide to layer the various fabrics, lace trim and paper scraps atop the batting as follows from bottom to top:
a. Quilt batting (four and three-quarter inches by six inches)
b. Torn cotton calico print fabric (four inches by five inches)
c. Vintage lace trim (a six and one-half inch length)
d. Gold misted French dictionary page scrap (three and one-half inches by five inches)
e. Colorwash dyed muslin scrap (three inches by five inches)
f. Gold painted dressmaker’s tissue scrap (two and one-half inches by five inches)
g. Fortune cookie fortune
h. White tulle (five inches by six inches)
Pin the layers together.
(11) Use a sewing machine to sew around the perimeter of all of the layers. Use straight and decorative stitches as desired. Be sure all of the layered elements are secure. Trim any overhanging edges of the white tulle.
(12) Determine your placement of the embellished heart as shown and glue a tiny snippet of antique lace to the layered fabric. Lay the heart on top and use a needle and embroidery floss to hand stitch the embellished heart to the layered fabric. Leave a one-inch section open and use the end of a pencil to add a bit of fiberfill stuffing under the heart. When stuffed sew the opening closed.
(13) Adhere the layered and stitched fabric to the card base using Wonder Tape to complete.
Patchwork Quilt Sachet Cover
(1) Pre-wash unbleached muslin to remove sizing.
(2) Cut or tear muslin to a three inch by four inch rectangle. Spray muslin with Mini Mister containing water followed by Denim Color Wash. Rinse to remove excess color until fabric is a very pale blue. Let dry and iron flat.
(3) To create a photo transfer on fabric, use foam brush to paint a coat of Perfect Fabric Medium directly onto the front of the color photocopy image. Place image face down onto center of pale blue fabric scrap. Burnish the image onto the muslin with brayer. Dry with Craft Tool or iron on the back of the fabric.
(4) Spray transfer with Mini Mister containing water and begin to remove the paper revealing the image transfer. Continue to wet and rub off all of the remaining photocopy paper.
(5) Use a Perfect Pearls detail brush to add touches of Blush Perfect Pearls to the skin tones of the transferred image.
(6) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet, use water brush to mix Blue Patina Perfect Pearls with Perfect Fabric Medium and water to create a diluted, translucent glaze. Brush the glaze over the image to seal and protect the image transfer. Allow to dry.
(7) Cut one 4″ x 7″ rectangle of muslin.
(8) Spray muslin with Mini Mister containing water followed by Denim Color Wash. Rinse to remove excess color. Let dry and iron flat. Ink Elegant Flourishes stamp with Perfect Medium Stamp Pad and stamp onto dyed muslin. Use Cosmetic Brush to brush on Forever Blue Perfect Pearls over the stamped image. Brush off excess powder. Working on the Craft Sheet, create a paint with Perfect Fabric Medium and Forever Blue Perfect Pearls and paint in the stamped swirl images. Set aside to dry.
(9) Cut one 4″ x 4″ rectangle of muslin. Spray the muslin with Mini Mister containing water followed by Cranberry Color Wash. Rinse to remove excess color. Let dry and iron flat. Ink Woodcut Hearts & Swirls stamp with Perfect Medium Stamp Pad and stamp onto dyed muslin. Use Cosmetic Brush to brush on Forever Red Perfect Pearls over the stamped image. Brush off excess powder. Working on the Craft Sheet, create a paint with Perfect Fabric Medium and Berry Twist Perfect Pearls and paint in stamped images.
(10) Repeat Step 9, using Stream and Bottle Color Wash and AlphaSayings Stamp with Perfect Green Perfect Pearls.
(11) Piece the three dyed muslin scraps together to form a patchwork pattern overlapping as desired. Pin the right sides together and machine sew each patch together. Iron the seams flat on the back.
(12) Use a sewing machine to sew the photo transfer to the center of the patchwork muslin.
(13) Hand-sew cream seed beads in a border around the photo transfer block using gold metallic thread. Using metallic thread and colored seed beads hand-sew accents around the red and blue stamped and painted patches. This will complete your sachet top.
Completing the Sachet
(14) Cut one 6″ x 7″ rectangle of muslin. Spray the muslin with Mini Mister containing water followed by Denim and Eggplant Color Wash. Rinse to remove excess color. Let dry and iron flat. Set aside.
(15) Cut one 6″ x 7″ rectangle of white tulle and one 6″ x 7″ rectangle of quilt batting.
(16) Sandwich the quilt batting between the dyed muslin and the tulle. Pin the edges to prevent shifting when sewing.
(17) Use a disappearing ink quilting pen or chalk pencil and a ruler, mark a 4½” x 5½” rectangle in the center of the fabric.
(18) Machine-sew through all of the layers along the chalk line on three sides creating a pocket. Fill the pocket with lavender between the quilt batting and the tulle and then machine sew the pocket closed. This is the sachet bottom.
(19) Pin the embellished sachet top to the sachet bottom. Machine-sew all of the layers together leaving at least a ½” seam allowance on all sides.
(20) Lay the sachet on a self-healing cutting mat. Use a ruler and a quilting rotary cutter to trim all of the edges ¼” from each sewn line to complete the sachet.
Create the Photo Transfer
(1) Pre-wash natural muslin fabric to remove sizing. Spritz wet muslin with Terra Cotta Color Wash and rinse to remove most of the color. Let dry and iron flat.
(2) Determine placement of photo transfer on fabric and use a foam brush to paint a coat of Perfect Fabric Medium directly onto the front of your color photocopy. Determine placement of photo transfer on fabric and burnish the image onto the muslin using brayer. Dry with Craft Tool or iron on the back of the fabric.
(3) Spray the back of the transfer with Mini Mister containing water and begin to remove the paper revealing the image transfer. Continue to wet and rub off remaining photocopy paper.
(4) On Non-Stick Craft Sheet use a water brush to mix Blush Perfect Pearls with Perfect Fabric Medium and water to create a diluted, translucent glaze for fabric. Brush the glaze over the photo to seal and protect the transfer. Allow to dry.
Glassine Tissue Paper for Quilt Border and Photo Mat
(5) Spray a piece of dressmaker’s pattern tissue with Mini Mister and water, followed by Cranberry, Wild Plum and Butterscotch Color Washes. Rinse carefully as the wet tissue is very fragile. Set tissue aside to dry.
(6) On Non-Stick Craft Sheet create paint with Perfect Fabric Medium and Blush and Perfect Pearl color Perfect Pearl Pigments Powders. Paint one side of the dyed tissue. Don’t worry about wrinkles in the tissue as this creates a nice effect.
(7) When the first side is completely dry, turn tissue over and apply a coat of the Fabric Medium/Pigment Powders paint to the other side. When completely dry you will have a strong, luminous tissue paper resembling raw silk.
Faux Leather Paper for Quilt Border and Photo Mat
(8) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet spray patterned paper with Perfect Ink Refresher and work into the paper. Carefully crumple wet paper then smooth out.
(9) Use a soft brush or your fingers to apply Perfect Gold and Blush Perfect to the patterned side of the paper.
(10) Dry and smooth paper with a craft iron.
Silk and Paper Flowers
(11) Use Non-Stick Craft Sheet™ as a palette to create luminous paints. Use a water brush to pick up some Perfect Pearls™ Pigment Powder. Mix into paint on the craft sheet. For a thicker paint use less water; for a thinner, translucent paint use more water.
(12) Mix three different paints using Blush, Perfect Gold and Berry Twist Pigment Powders.
(13) Apply the various paints using brush tip brush to a variety of white silk flowers and to several small mulberry paper flowers.
(14) When the paints dry the powders are fixed. Layer two to three silk flowers and add pearl brads to the centers to create three different sizes of larger flowers. Set all flowers aside.
(15) Type quotation into computer and change font color to a dark brown color.
(16) In a small cup, mix together Clear Super Fine Detail™ Embossing Powder and Blush Perfect Pearls™ Pigment Powder.
(17) Print out quotation onto vellum and while ink is still wet sprinkle on embossing powder mixture; shake off excess and place into a new container to keep for another project.
(18) Emboss with Craft Tool.
(19) Cut quotation into phrases and back with small scraps of text patterned paper.
(20) Use a small square of Cut n’ Dry™ Foam to ink the edges of the phrases with Aged Mahogany Distress Ink™. Set aside.
Floss Bobbin Embellishments
(21) Use Non-Stick Craft Sheet™ as a palette to create dyes for the floss bobbins.
(22) Spray tiny amounts of Cranberry, Wild Plum and Butterscotch Color Washes onto the Craft Sheet.
(23) Spritz with water to dilute the dyes. Create several puddles of the three colors on the craft sheet.
(24) Wet three embroidery cardstock floss bobbins then place them in the different dyes.
(25) Blot bobbins with paper towel and dry with Craft Tool.
(26) Use a small square of Cut n’ Dry™ Foam to ink the edges of the bobbins with Aged Mahogany Distress Ink™. Tear thin strips of white muslin and wrap around the cards.
(27) Ink floral rubber stamp with Perfect Medium™ stamp pad and stamp the image onto each muslin-wrapped floss card.
(28) Use cosmetic brush to brush on Blush, Perfect Gold and Green Patina Perfect Pearls over the images.
(29) Wrap silk ribbons around cards and tie silk ribbon bows to the top of each card.
(30) Embellish with tiny inked jewelry tags, small safety pins and beaded dressmaker pin. Set aside.
Putting It All Together!
(31) Sandwich 12” x 14” quilt batting between the white muslin and scrap fabric pieces; baste the layers together to prevent shifting.
(32) Use sewing machine threaded with salmon-colored thread to sew vertical lines through all of the layers. Be sure to work from the center out when you sew to reduce puckering and bunching.
(33) Vary the distance between the vertical sewn lines so they gradually increase in width from ¼” to 1¾” moving from the left to right.
(34) Sew border lines all around to create a 10½” x 12” piece, cutting off excess fabric leaving about 1/8” from each sewn border.
(35) Cut a 5½” x 8” rectangle from faux leather paper. Tear one side and emboss the edges using Clear Embossing Ink, Ancient Gold™ Princess Gold Embossing Powder and Craft Tool.
(36) Cut muslin with photo transfer to 4¼” x 7¾”.
(37) Cut two 1” x 8” strips and two 1” x 5” strips from glassine tissue. Wrap the ends of the photo transfer fabric with the tissue strips. Tack down with a very small amount of Glossy Accents and miter the corners. Hand-sew a zigzag pattern around the tissue border using gold metallic embroidery floss and glass beads.
(38) Sandwich a 4” x 7½” piece of quilt batting between the photo transfer and the embossed faux leather paper. Hand-sew the beaded photo transfer using decorative herringbone stitch with gold metallic embroidery floss. Attach a gold heart charm with Glossy Accents. Add an inked jewelry tag embellished with name, silk ribbon and torn muslin strip.
(39) Hand-sew the matted photo transfer to the bottom right of the quilt background using gold floss and pearl beads approximately 1” from the right side and bottom of quilt.
(40) Using the vertical quilted lines as a guide, use green embroidery floss to backstitch three flower stems on the left side of the photo transfer. Then use a decorative double-threaded backstitch with soft yarn fiber to complete the stems.
(41) Tack down three large painted silk flowers with needle and embroidery thread at the tops of the stems.
(42) Arrange small, painted paper flowers among the stems and sew to the quilt adding pearl beads to each center.
(43) Add the quotation strips among the flowers and stems tacking down with needle and embroidery thread. Tie bits of green silk ribbon to some of the phrases and stems for leaves. Add two beaded dressmaker pins among the flowers and phrases.
(44) Add the floss bobbin embellishments in a row above the photo transfer. Attach with a strong double-sided tape and secure with a sewn stitch from the back.
(45) Cut two strips (5/8” x 11”) and two strips (5/8” x 12”) from faux leather paper and use a light adhesive to tack onto the top, bottom and sides of the quilt. Trim off excess.
(46) Cut two 1” x 11” strips and two 1” x 12½” strips from the glassine tissue. Wrap the ends of the top, sides and bottom with the tissue strips with 3/8” showing on the front. Tack down with a tiny amount of Glossy Accents™. Hand-sew the borders using a decorative blanket stitch with gold metallic embroidery floss and pink seed beads.
(47) On the inside faux leather paper border, hand sew using a decorative fly stitch with pink embroidery floss and tiny white seed beads.
(48) Cut a 10¼” x 12” rectangle of white felt and stitch or glue to the back of the finished quilt.
(1) Over Non-Stick Craft Sheet, stamp images on silk scarf with clear embossing ink. Cover with Clear Embossing Powder; shake off excess.
(2) With Craft Tool, emboss images. Make sure it is over the Craft Sheet, as the heated embossing powder will go through to the other side, and will easily peel off the non-stick surface of the Craft Sheet!
(3) Prepare your work surface and you for coloring the silk (remember this is a dye that works on fabric, so wear a protective smock/apron and gloves!). Lay scarf onto the Craft Sheet; lightly spray various colors of Color Wash onto fabric. If there any areas you want lighter, just spritz with water, which will create lighter tones and colors.
(4) Place silk between two sheets of newsprint. With iron on highest setting, begin to iron over newsprint.
(5) Continue ironing until you can see all of your embossed images transferred into the newsprint.
(6) Begin removing the newsprint. This can be tricky at first, because you need to slowly peel away the paper on the one side so it does not cool again and stick to the fabric! Do this by ironing a section at a time, peeling the paper away as your iron.
(7) Turn scarf over and iron to remove the second piece of newsprint, following the above steps.
(8) Heat set these inks by putting the fabric on highest setting in a clothes dryer for approximately five (5) minutes (closely monitor this!) or use a travel steamer. Once scarf is heat set rinse in bucket of cold water. Note: for more color intensity, add a capful of white vinegar to bucket of cold water and rinse. Wring out excess water and let it air dry in a ball (when it dries it will leave unique, permanent wrinkles and texture).
Preparing the fabric:
(1) Pre-wash all fabric material to remove sizing.
(2) Working with one piece of fabric at a time, gather in sections and secure with a rubber band. Continue until each piece is banded. For this project, four (4) different types of material was used to add a textural feel and look: White Linen/Wild Plum; Cotton Eyelet/Denim; Plain White Cotton/Lettuce; Coarse Burlap/Butterscotch.
(3) For this next step, it is highly recommended that rubber gloves be worn and to work on a protected work surface (maybe even work outside!) Working with one color at a time, wet the banded material.
(4) Mistwet fabric with Color Wash, making sure to rotate and cover the entire piece. Repeat this step with each section of fabric. (Note: change rubber gloves or wash them off with each color change to minimize mixing of colors.)
(5) Once all pieces are dyed, remove all rubber bands, lay flat and let dry.
(6) If sections of fabric did not get enough or any color, not to worry. Mist with additional Color Wash and water or simply mist the areas that have an excess of dye with water and let it saturate the areas you want dyed. The whole idea of this project is to get an uneven colored, “tie dye” effect.
(7) Decide which fabric is to have a smooth or wrinkled finish; iron those for a smooth finish. In the example, all but the leaves are ironed.
Assembling the Flower:
(8) The Foam Board is the backing for the fabric. Cut five (5) circles, five (5) flower petals, one (1) larger circle of the flower center, two (2) leaves and one (1) 5” x 8” backing piece. (Hint: use bowls as circle templates.) The flower petals are cut using the same free-hand oval pattern as the leaves.
(9) Cut the fabric to create the leaves, flower pointed petals and round petals, leaving a ¼” border beyond the Foam Board pieces.
(10) Cut the material for the clock face with an extra border of 3″ of fabric.
(11) Working on a protected surface, spray each piece of Foam Board with spray adhesive and apply the dyed fabric to each piece. Set aside to dry.
(12) Assemble the clock flower center. Still working on a protected surface, spray large Foam Board circle with spray adhesive and lay the foam batting directly it. Lay the fabric over the batting and flip the foam board over. Staple the excess material to the foam board. (Tip: staple one side, then place the next staple opposite the first. Continue until the entire piece is secured.) Cut away any excess material.
Assembling the Clock:
(13) Cut a 3″ square into the center of the backing board. Lay the backing board onto a protected surface and adhere each piece of the flower to this board using E-6000, starting with the circles, followed by the pointed petals and leaves. Be sure to leave access to the cut square in the back of the base.
(14) Create a small hole in the center of the clock face with an awl; this is where the clock works will be added.
(15) Adhere the clock movement over the square in the base using E-6000. Set aside to cure (this may take 24-72 hours depending on climate and weather conditions).
(16) Once cured, thread the clock stem through the small hole in the front of the clock face and attach the clock hands per manufacturer’s directions. Attach desired numbers to the face in their proper position. (Note: while all numbers for the clock are included in the clock making kit, only 12/3/6/9 are used for this project.)
(17) The clock is finished! To add a sparkly touch, apply Stickles™ Glitter Glue to the fabric.
(1) Wash and dry Onesie® according to manufacturer’s directions to remove sizing.
(2) Insert cardboard into the Onesie®.
(3) Using the Adirondack Pigment Pen, draw your design onto the Onesie®. Let dry. (Note: a design can also be stamped with a permanent ink such as Archival, or traced onto the fabric.)
(4) With your brush mix a pea-sized amount of Perfect Pearls in Sunflower Sparkle and a quarter-sized portion of Perfect Fabric Medium on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet. Repeat using Perfect Pearls in Berry Twist.
(5) Paint in the flowers with the Perfect Pearls Mixtures.
(6) Repeat Step 3 using Perfect Pearls in Kiwi, then Perfect Pearls in Forever Green.
(7) Paint in the stems and leaves. Let dry. Launder after 72 hours.
(1) Cut one four inch by seven inch rectangle of unbleached muslin.
(2) Ink the floral border stamp with Olive Archival Ink and stamp in a vertical pattern over the entire surface of the muslin.
(3) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet, mix together Perfect Fabric Medium and Perfect Pearls Pigment Powders with a detail brush to create creamy paints. Make three different paints with Forever Green, Forever Red and Sunflower Sparkle Powders. Use the detail brush to paint in the stamped images. Forever Green for the leaves, Forever Red for the berries and Sunflower Sparkle for the stems and highlights on the leaves.
(4) Once the stamped and painted fabric is completely dry, iron on the back side to remove wrinkles.
(5) Cut one rectangle from the velvet about three inches by four inches.
(6) Turn on your iron to the cotton/linen setting. Place the “J” stamp on your work surface with the rubber side facing up. Position the velvet on top of the rubber stamp with the fuzzy side (the right side) of the fabric facing down. Mist the wrong side of the velvet with water. The fabric should be slightly wet but do not soak the velvet completely. Place the iron directly onto the wrong side of the velvet atop the rubber stamp. (If your iron has steam holes, avoid pressing them onto the velvet as they may make a pattern on the velvet.) Press down gently and hold the iron in place for fifteen to twenty seconds. Lift the iron to check the impression. You will see the outline of the stamp from the back of the fabric when it is done. You may need to replace the iron for an additional fifteen seconds or so. Repeat this embossing step for the letters “O” and “Y”.
(7) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet, mix together Perfect Fabric Medium and Perfect Pearls Perfect Gold Pigment Powder with a detail brush to create a creamy paint. Use the detail brush to paint in the embossed letters on the right side of the velvet. Set aside to dry and then trim the velvet to two and one-quarter inch by three and three-quarter inches.
(8) Cut one three and three-quarter inch by five and one-half inch rectangle from cream felt and cut one three and three-quarter inch by five and one-half inch rectangle from the painted muslin. Sandwich the two fabrics together and sew around the perimeter using a one-half inch seam allowance. Sew the embossed velvet rectangle atop the muslin, offset to the bottom right. Sew only the bottom and short sides of the velvet to create the pocket.
(9) Use pinking shears to trim each side of the sewn ornament so it measures three and one-quarter inch by five inches.
(10) Use a three-quarter inch by three inch scrap of the leftover painted muslin to create a hanger for the ornament. Fold the scrap in half and sew to the top left corner of the ornament.
(11) Working on the Non-Stick Craft Sheet, spritz the white silk poinsettia with Perfect Pearls Mist in Interference Red. Use the Perfect Pearls Dusting Brush to brush on a small amount of Blush Perfect Pearls Pigment Powder to the flower. Let dry or speed drying with the Heat-it Tool. Use cotton floss and a needle to hand sew the flower to the top left corner of the ornament.
(12) Cover a small jingle bell with Perfect Medium and brush with Perfect Gold Pigment Powder. Mist with water to set the powders and dry with Heat-it Tool. Allow the bell to cool and then use cotton floss and a needle to hand sew the bell to the center of the flower to complete your project.
(1) Use a paint brush and the Matte Multi-Medium to draw large circles on the 4.75″x8″ piece of Sticky-Back Canvas. Let the circles dry completely.
(2) Spray some Sailboat Blue and Butterscotch Color Wash onto the piece of canvas. Dip your paintbrush in water and move the ink around to make it similar to a watercolor wash. If necessary, use a paper towel to wipe excess Color Wash off of the Matte Medium circles. Let the piece of canvas dry.
(3) Remove the adhesive backing from the canvas, and apply it to the wrong side of scrap of fabric. The fabric becomes the lining for the gift pocket. Sew all the way around the entire piece of canvas and fabric.
(4) Fold up about 3″ of the canvas to form a pocket, and use a sewing machine to sew the pocket into place.
(5) Cut 3 circles out of the 3″x6″ piece of Sticky Back Canvas. Vary the size of the circles…you’ll use them to build your snowman.
(6) Sew around the edges of the 3 circles.
(7) Use Matte Medium to glue the circles together into a snowman.
(8) Add a scrap of orange fabric or paper for a carrot-like nose, and fashion a top hat from black fabric or paper. Adhere those to the snowman with Matte Medium. I used blue tulle to add a bow to the black hat. You could decorate your top hat with ribbon or even flowers.
(9) Use Distress Stickles to add more detail to the snowman. I used Broken China for the eyes, and Black Diamond for the mouth and buttons.
(10) Cut some arms for your snowman from a piece of brown fabric or paper (I used a brown paper bag). Adhere your arms to the snowman with Matte Medium.
(11) When the snowman is dry, use Matte Medium to glue him to the upper front flap of your gift pocket. Be sure to just glue on the upper flap so the envelope can still opened.
(12) Print out “Happy Holidays” from your computer (or use stamps) and glue on the sentiment near the snowman with Matte Medium.