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Creativation 2018 Sneak Peek Day 5 | New ICE Resin® and Vintaj Products

January 19th, 2018

It’s the last day of Creativation Sneak Peeks! Today we’re sharing with you the new products in the ICE Resin® and Vintaj product lines !


Introducing three new colors to the collection of ICE Resin Opals. Capture opalescent beauty when you add light catching Opals to your designs under ICE Resin®. Opals add a hint of color and texture to your creations. Mix colors together or with other materials for unique effects.


Download a copy of the press release here: ICE Resin® Opals


Introducing new Susan Lenart Kazmer Ice Resin® Lusters! Specially formulated by Ranger to achieve permanent opaque color and shimmer. Ideal for use on metals and to colorize Ice Resin, these fast drying paints are a must have for gorgeous jewelry and mixed media creations. Available in .5 oz bottles.


Download a copy of the press release here: ICE Resin® Lusters


Introducing a new collection of Susan Lenart Kazmer Bezels to the ICE Resin® product line. The new Rune Bezels replicate original designs by Susan Lenart Kazmer and are available in Antique Silver and Antique Bronze finishes in a variety of shapes and sizes. Rune Bezels have a closed back and are ideal to fill with Iced Enamels, Shattered Mica, German Glass Glitter, Opals & ICE Resin®!


Download a copy of the press release here: ICE Resin® Rune Bezels


ICE Resin® Jewelry Wires are a unique addition to the ICE Resin® findings by Susan Lenart Kazmer. These flexible double ball ended wires come in three lengths – 2”, 4” & 6” and an Antique Bronze finish. Jewelry Wires can be used for twisting and wrapping into designs, to form closures, between elements and more! Great for use with the full line of ICE Resin® products.


Download a copy of the press release here: ICE Resin® Jewelry Wires


The ICE Resin® Rune Bezel Template makes it easy to include ephemera, photographs, foil sheets and more inside a Rune bezel. Custom designed to the exact shapes and dimensions of the ICE Resin® Rune Bezels, simply trace and cut selected images then adhere inside bezel.


Download a copy of the press release here: ICE Resin® Rune Bezel Template


Introducing three colors of Vintaj Pearl Patinas! These new Vintaj® Pearl Patinas are opaque inks, with a hint of pearl, specially formulated by Ranger to adhere permanently to metal. The Patinas will colorize Vintaj® Findings, Filigrees, Bezels and other metals for gorgeous jewelry and crafting projects and can be layered to create endless patina effects. These 3 new colors are available open stock and in a kit- Abalone Pearl. Available in .5 oz bottles.


Download a copy of the press release here: Vintaj Pearl Patinas


Anita Houston demos with Perfect Pearls


Colorizing Embellishments with Alcohol Ink by Tammy Tutterow

Alcohol Ink Embellishments by Tammy Tutterow |

Colorizing EmbellishmentsStep 1: Acrylic embellishments like Mirrored Stars and Gumdrops by Tim Holtz Idea-ology are fabulous straight out of the package.  They couldn’t be any more simple to add color to though with alcohol ink.  Simply drip a drop or two onto the surface…and allow the piece to air dry.  Because alcohol inks dry quickly the colorized piece is ready to use on your project in just a few minutes!  (Color shown: Cranberry.)

Colorizing Embellishments Step 1Metal embellishments are just as easy to color.  Drip color on to the piece directly and blot away any excess with a felt applicator tool.  You can also apply the ink to the felt applicator tool and tap it onto the surface of the embellishment.  (Color shown: Sail Boat Blue.)

Colorizing Embellishments Step 2Step 2: Stamp the image over the entire tag, re-inking the stamp with the dabber after each impression. Sprinkle the Sticky Embossing Powder over the tag. Remove the excess powder onto the piece of scrap paper and return it into the jar.

Colorizing Embellishments Step 2
Would you like to take it to a whole other level?  Add more color to your felt and tap it onto the surface over the first color.  You will get rich layers of color.  Add one of the metallic mixatives and add some real wow to your piece!  (Colors shown: Sail Boat Blue, Lettuce, and Silver Mixative.)

Colorizing Embellishments Step 2Don’t be afraid to mix and match and try more than just colors.  The opaque Snow Cap Mixative on a Gumdrop is so gorgeous!  It adds an opaque base around the raised points on the Gumdrop allowing the raised points on the Gumdrop to really sparkle and shine!

Colorizing Embellishments Step 3Step 3: Using a felt applicator tool for embellishments with lots of detailed shapes creates an amazing look.  The tool will help you to apply the color to just the raised areas so that the deeper base color of the metal remains in the recesses.  (Frames: Tim Holtz Idea-ology Ornate Plates.)

Colorizing Embellishments Step 4Step 4: Adding one of the metallic mixatives randomly over the color lets you bring back the metal look.  This piece now looks as if it was aged silver.  (Colors used: Lettuce and Silver Mixative.)

Colorizing Embellishments Step 5
Step 4: Using Snow Cap Mixative will add an opaque finish to the metal piece similar to a painted look but with less drying time.  You can use the white layer alone or use it as a base layer to apply additional colors over.  The white base will make the colors on top more vibrant.

Colorizing Embellishments Step 6Step 5: A single coat of Silver Mixative (frame on left) can add a stunning effect.  Sand lightly with a Tim Holtz Sanding Grip to expose some of the metal under the original finish.

Colorizing Embellishments Step 6
The simple and quick addition of just three different alcohol inks create quite a range of looks turning a great base embellishment into some really spectacular!

Can you believe how fast and simple it is to add so much wow to your embellishments?  I’ll be sharing more alcohol ink ideas with you through out the month.  You won’t believe what all you can do with these versatile inks!


tammytutterow2014Tammy Tutterow is the Social Media Manager for Ranger Ink.  She lives near St. Louis, MO.  Tammy is a two time Ranger U graduate.  She is big fan of inky hands and loves writing tutorials online and teaching classes in stores.  You can learn more about Tammy on her blog: Tammy Tutterow- Tutorials for Inky Hands.


The Importance of Repetition in Your Artwork by Dina Wakley

I have an idea for you try in your work, whether you do cards, tags, journal pages, scrapbook pages, or other mixed-media pieces. The idea is repetition. The idea is to select an image or motif, and then repeat it in several areas of your piece. When you repeat an image, you add visual intensity and interest to your piece. Plus you don’t have to reinvent the wheel and dig for the perfect image.  Continue reading


Which Ranger Ink Adhesive is Right for Your Project?

January 21st, 2015

Ranger Ink Adhesive Information  | CHA2015With so many great adhesive options available to you from Ranger Ink, you may find yourself wondering which adhesive is right for your project.  We developed the following informational signs for our booth at the recent CHA trade show.  So many visitors to the booth found them informative and helpful that we thought our blog readers might like seeing them too! Continue reading


Sealing Chain & Rings with Vintaj Glaze

Here are some great tips & techniques for sealing metal jewelry with Vintaj Glaze, brought to you by Jess from Vintaj Natural Brass.  These techniques were originally shared on the Vintaj blog, so be sure to check that out for more great ideas!

Over the years many of you have asked about sealing our natural metals. Vintaj Natural Brass, Artisan Copper and Arte Metal are not plated or treated with chemicals in any way. They are 100% natural, therefore, it is in a breathable state, which is why they are ideal for artistic applications. However, as with most natural metals, if it is exposed to high moisture for an extended period of time, it may oxidize. We now have the perfect solution for you if you would like to keep them in their original state! We developed a Glaze with Ranger to work as a metal sealer and Patina extender. Today I would like to share some helpful tips with you on how to use the Glaze as a metal sealer.

Use Vintaj Glaze to preserve exact color and texture of Vintaj Metals, regardless of where, when, and how much you wear and use them!

Vintaj Glaze features:
 Clear top coat and Patina extender for metal
– Non-yellowing, non-cracking
– Permanent when dry
– Fast drying, durable satin finish
– No acids

Also looking for a way to seal a natural brass filigree ring to avoid marks on your finger from the copper content? Here’s an easy way to seal the metal for long wear and use without the ring lightening and changing colors.


Adirondack Alcohol Ink Pansies

Adirondack Alcohol Ink Pansy Card Step 1

Step 1: Trim a piece of Inkssentials™ Gloss cardstock to 5 ¼” x 5 ¼”. Apply Willow Adirondack Alcohol Ink and Alcohol Blending Solution to an Alcohol Ink Felt. Cover the entire piece of cardstock with the Willow alcohol ink.

Adirondack Alcohol Ink Pansy Card Step 2

Step 2: Cut an Alcohol Ink Felt into a square. Use the pattern shown to apply Eggplant, Purple Twilight and Sunshine Yellow Adirondack Alcohol Inks and Alcohol Blending Solution to the felt.

Adirondack Alcohol Ink Pansy Card Step 3

Step 3: Create the individual flowers in one swift motion – place the inked felt on the gloss cardstock, twist the Alcohol Ink Applicator one quarter turn and lift. Repeat until the cardstock is covered with flowers. Remember, by overlapping flowers and adding flowers off the edges yields a more eye-pleasing finished product.

Adirondack Alcohol Ink Pansy Card Step 4

Step 4: Cut an Alcohol Ink Felt into a heart shape to create the pansy leaves. Outline the heart shaped felt with Pesto Adirondack Alcohol Ink. Add Lettuce Adirondack Alcohol Ink to the center of the heart and add a few drops of Alcohol Blending Solution. Stamp the leaf several times over, around and beside the flowers.

Adirondack Alcohol Ink Pansy Card Step 5

Step 5: Use a black marker or gel pen to roughly outline and highlight the flowers and leaves.

Adirondack Alcohol Ink Pansy Card Step 6

Step 6: Mount the finished pansy card panel onto Bazzill Basics cardstock. Attach paper lace (created using Bazzill Basics Cardstock and EK Success Border Punches) and Offray gingham ribbon to the left portion of the card. Stamp the sentiment using Eggplant Adirondack Dye Ink on a white cardstock oval. Mount the stamped oval to a die-cut scallop oval and mount over the ribbon using Pop-It Circles.


Cut n’ Dry Felt & Foam

By Liz Sewald and Ranger

Cut n’ Dry Felt & Foam Pads accept all types of viscous, water and solvent-based ink.

Foam: Ideal for creating shading and distress effects by rubbing CnD Foam directly from ink pad to paper; more control and softer edges then direct from the ink pad; to create a custom ink pad the following inks are ideal for CnD Foam: Tim Holtz Distress Ink Re-inkers, Dylusions Ink Sprays and Ranger Dye Ink Re-inkers.

Felt: The perfect medium for creating custom dye stamp pads using the following inks: Tim Holtz Distress Inks™, Watermark Resist™,  and Jet Black Archival Ink.

Make Your Own Rainbow
1. Either use a scrap of Cut n’ Dry or cut your pad to the size of the wood or foam block your rubber stamp is mounted to or to the desired size necessary for your project.

2. Over a protective surface, apply several colors of ink. When placing complimentary colors together, such as blue and orange, red and green or purple and yellow, remember to leave a space between the inks or they will immediately blend to produce brown. Also, keep in mind that dark tones will overtake light shades and that dye inks spread quickly across the felt pad.

3. Create a rainbow with vertical, horizontal or diagonal stripes; a bull’s eye design or rainbow curves. Create a monochromatic rainbow pad with coordinating colors.

4. Store your inked rainbow pad by placing it in cling wrap (in a storage bag it could move around and mix the colors).

Make a Custom Color Pad
1. Choose a detailed rubber stamp that will look great with several colors of ink strategically placed on the design (a perfect use for Holiday Cards!).
2. Using Jet Black Archival™ Ink, stamp the foam/felt; be sure to align the edges of your stamp mount with the edges of your cut pad. With stamp still in place, trace outline of block with a pen and cut out so the Cut n’ Dry is the same size as the stamp block that you used. Clean stamp with Cleansit Stamp Cleaner and set aside.

3. Using reinkers, color stamped image by gently squeezing ink onto the outlined part of the image. DO NOT APPLY TOO MUCH INK. Inks will blend and bleed over time but not overlap. It will still stamp fine. Note: I find it helpful to stamp out one of the images and mark the colors used for future re-inking…you’ll know what is where!

4. Line up stamp to “custom” pad you just created (lining up is easy because the CnD is cut to the same size as the stamp!). Press down onto the pad to ink the stamp; a little pressure may be needed. Stamp image onto cardstock.
Tip: When using dye ink, use water brush to further “blend” image for a more watercolor effect.

Other Tips
• With Pigment Ink: stamp image from custom ink pad three times, NOT re-inking between
stampings. Emboss with clear embossing powder. You will have three generations of the image
cool! (This works great with bold/brush stroke flower images.)

• Make a stamp with the gray side of CnD. Cut out any shape and ink. Use a heat tool on it for a
few seconds and press into a textured object; you now have your own custom textured stamp!

• Create a “puddle pad”. This is great for stamps of leaves, background or solid image stamps.
Drop dots of color onto a cut out piece of CnD, then stamp…this works best with dye inks and
with same color families. Turn the stamp a different direction each time when stamping (clean in
between stampings) to create a different look with each stamping.


Tim Holtz® Distress Ink Pads

Here are some key points that make Distress Inks different:

STAYS WET LONGER – (allows you to blend and shade on photos and paper – also emboss) other dye inks dry too fast especially on photos so you end up with lines and marks if you go direct from the pad.

COLOR WICKS OR SPREADS OUT – (these inks will travel across the surface of your paper when spritzed with water) other dyes do not travel as much although they might bleed a little when wet, the Distress Inks actually “wick” or spread out much further creating several tone on tones.

COLOR STABILITY – (the colors of the Distress Inks will not break down when wet or heated allowing you to have more color control for the finished look) other “brown colored” dyes will break down when water is added leaving a pink & green hue.

COLOR PALETTE – Well these are unlike ANY other colors of inks you’ve seen. The color palette of Distress Inks is:

* Antique Linen – the color of aged lace or linens found in the cherished heirlooms of Grandmother’s trunk

* Old Paper – the color of weathered and timeless book pages tucked away in the attic for generations

* Tea Dye – the orange hue of saturated tea bags with the results of dying in a tea bath for days

* Vintage Photo – this color is captured right out of the photographs from times gone by

* Walnut Stain – a rich, dark stain of and old walnut tree perfect to create a dark wash of color

* Black Soot – from the depths, a black like no other – this is the one you’ve been searching for

* Fired Brick – the look of charred cinders from an old camp fire

* Weathered Wood – taken from the patina on a dairy barn’s window frame

* Mustard Seed – the rich, warm taste of spicy Americana mustard

* Peeled Paint – the color of the flaked green paint on Aunt Sadie’s porch

* Tattered Rose – Grandma’s cabbage rose wall paper, faded and stained to

* Milled Lavender – a veil of pale lavender sachet tucked into Mom’s lingerie

TO DISTRESS: I like to use water when I am distressing. I think it gives the papers more of a weathered texture, so here’s how I start. Working on any type of paper (manila, cardstock, or text weight), crumple the paper up – always press in the center of any heavyweight cardstock or manila stock – this will break the surface tension of the paper and allow you to crumple up the paper easier without tearing it. Next rub the Distress pads over the surface – you can work with several different colors or just one – WALNUT STAIN IS IDEAL FOR THIS. Then spray the inked surface with water (you will immediately notice the ink “travels” outward when water is applied as these inks are designed to react with water). Heat the surface to dry – and here’s why… Although you don’t have to Heat Set these inks for any reason, I like to dry the water using either my Heat-It Craft Tool or an iron. This will allow for more tone control and keep areas dark and others light. Ironing the paper will also give you a much smoother surface to stamp on without compromising the aged finish. *If you allow the surface to air-dry most of your color will end up on the edges only because the paper will bend and buckle when wet, forcing the ink and water to the edges. Notice that these Distress Inks retain their color value even when wet and dried. Other brown dyes will break down in color (sometimes leaving a pink and green hue).

DOUBLE DISTRESS TAGS: Crumple tag and apply 2 colors (one new tone and one original tone) of Distress Inks directly from the pads to each crumpled tag. Spray with water and dry.

To create the look of aged papers, from times gone by, without all the lines
and wrinkles – give this a try. Working on your non-stick Craft Sheet, begin
by directly applying various colors of Distress Ink Pads to the surface of the
Craft Sheet. A couple of swipes of a color or two will do the trick (you
might also try using an original color of Distress Ink along with a new one!).
Get out your Distress Re-Inkers for this next step as you want to add a bit of
intense color for the ultimate vintage look. I like using Walnut Stain or
Vintage Photo for this, so remove the glass dropper from the bottle and drag it
across the inked Craft Sheet – do not squeeze any drops of ink as it will take
over everything! Next mist the Craft Sheet with water to allow the inks to
begin mixing and blending – usually 3-4 sprays is plenty. Then take your paper
or tag and place in directly on the inked Craft Sheet and lift it off. If you
have any un-inked areas simply place that area of the paper on any left over
inks on the sheet. Finally dry your paper or tag using an iron or a Heat-It
Craft Tool ( if you allow your papers to air dry they will curl and force most
of the ink to the edges so I prefer to heat them to dry.). To finish your
attic-fresh look, ink the edges with Distress Inks using a piece of Cut n’ Dry

FOR STAMPING: What can I say about the many stamping applications these inks can achieve. Once again the special formulation on these Distress Inks provides a versatile finish on papers yet still allow for “normal” stamping applications. I like to stamp on uncoated (matte) papers and immediately rub the image with a cloth – this will soften or shadow your image WITHOUT smudging any detail – VINTAGE PHOTO, WALNUT STAIN, TEA DYE, BLACK SOOT – wonderful for this one! Another surface is glossy cardstock – keep in mind this is a different type of dye ink so when you stamp on glossy, certain areas of your image will “bead” up, once again providing a Distressed look without you doing a thing (this is probably one of my most favorite looks) – some areas of the image appear “pitted”. Brayering on glossy cardstock is also wonderful because you can still manipulate the inks with different tools, brushes, your fingers, whatever. Even after the ink is applied you can achieve amazing texture and color shading.

ON PHOTOS: FINALLY an ink formulated for photos! Whether you’re a scrapbooker or not you can use all types of photos (vintage or new ones) on your cards and pages. The Distress Inks work on all types of photos – inkjet, laser, toner copies, regular photos (matte or glossy) and even color photos! Start by using the lightest colors ANTIQUE LINEN or OLD PAPER with either a brayer or DTP (direct to photo). Cover the photo in the lighter colors, blend the colors with
a small piece of Cut n’ Dry Foam after you apply the inks – these inks stay
wet long enough for you to blend out any lines or marks other ink pads leave on
photos. Next age the edges with VINTAGE PHOTO or WALNUT STAIN by applying the pad directly to the edges – soften and mix the tones with a small piece of Ranger Cut ‘n Dry™ Foam. Of course to complete the aged process lightly sand – YES SAND – the photo with medium grit sand paper. Don’t go over anyone’s face, but just make a few scratches here and there.

Distress Inks acid-free, easy to blend formula makes them your best choice
for photo tinting. Make a black and white copy of your favorite photo onto
Ranger Gloss Paper. Select areas of your photo to colorize. Pick up ink directly from the Distress Pads with Cut n’ Dry Nibs and color. It’s that easy! Cut n’ Dry Nibs provide the control you need to place colors exactly where you want them. Distress Photo Edging Make any photo look antique. Cut a small square of Cut
n’ Dry Foam. Ink the foam on one of the Distress pads. Rub the inked foam
around the edges of the photo for anaged effect.

THE RE-INKERS: The Distress re-inkers are so versatile and fun, especially the bottles they’re in! These vintage looking glass dropper vials are perfect for aging a “batch” of tags, fibers, linens or whatever, in baths of Distress Inks & water. You can also create your own palette on your craft sheet using the reinkers and hand tint any black and white photo color by color (very fun thing to do). I also like using the resist ink or Perfect Medium and the reinkers to create amazing stained backgrounds on papers. Enjoy the journey…

For more information, visit


Tim Holtz® Distress Crackle Paint

Decades of Distress in one simple step! Tim Holtz® Distress Crackle Paint is a unique one-step paint that cracks as it dries. Use with the fabulous Distress Paint palette. A multitude of looks can be created, from grungy to vintage distressed to shabby chic!

Here are some tips on how to get the best results with Distress Crackle Paint!

1. Shake the jar well. If it is a little thicker, add some mists of water with a Mini Mister™. Stir and add more mists of water as needed until you have a smoother consistency. Note: only add water to Crackle Paint IF NEEDED.

2. Apply Distress Crackle Paint to a surface that has some “tooth” (something that the paint can grab onto) such as paper, Grungeboard™, chipboard or primed canvas. If using unfinished wood or natural canvas, it is suggested to prime the surface first with gesso or acrylic paint, such as the Ranger Acrylic Paint Dabbers or Tim Holz® Distress Paint.

3. It is ideal to apply medium to thick applications; a medium application will result in smaller cracks. A thicker coat will create larger cracks. A thin application doesn’t work as well because the paint has nothing to crack. Don’t treat the paint like a “regular” acrylic paint-Distress Crackle Paint is self-leveling. If a thicker application is applied, the paint will still level out before it dries and cracks.

4. The optimal way for the paint to crack is to just let it dry and crack on its own. Yes-watching paint dry! If you’re in a rush for the “magic”, once the paint has started to crackle on its own first (this is an IMPORTANT step!) apply cool air, such as from a mini-fan or dry with a Craft Tool from underneath the painted surface.

5. Be sure to completely close the lids on the jars.

6. Once the paint crackles, an option is to highlight the cracks using one of the Distress Ink Pads and the Ranger Ink Blending Tool. The matching color of the Distress Ink will accent the cracks; a darker color of Distress Ink will tone down the paint color as well as accenting the crackle.

7. Images can be stamped on the crackled surface with Ranger Acrylic Paint Dabbers or Tim Holz® Distress Paint as well as Archival™ Ink Stamp Pads. Many rub-ons can also be applied to the crackles surfaces. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

8. Remember, it’s paint…that cracks.